Featured Restaurant: The Steak Restaurant

26th January 2018

316 Uxbridge Road • Hatch End • HA5 4HR • 0208 421 2878

Reviewed by Alan Cox

I’ve never come across an 1800˚F Grill before, but having been enlightened at The Steak Restaurant, the latest establishment to open in the dining-out mecca that is Hatch End, I’m a convert. I can vouch that its extreme heat does indeed caramelise, sear and lock in all the juices – as my wife, daughter and I discover.

The restaurant is, as its name suggests, first and foremost a red meat eater’s paradise. There are a handful of other offerings: chicken, fish and vegetarian, which I am sure are all excellent, but this is really all about the Sirloin, T- Bone, Rump, Rib Eye, Fillet and Chateaubriand.

Its smart interior has the feel of a gentleman’s club, with rich chocolate tones and moody lighting making it all very classy, yet at the same time cosy and intimate. Stylish glassware adds another touch of elegance, although I'm not quite so convinced about the waiters' iPads: maybe a bit too ‘fast food outlet’ for a high end establishment as this. The place is really buzzing
and full to capacity, which, with the added vibrant jazz music, is making our evening a little noisy.

At TSR simple presentation is the trademark, bravely leaving the food to speak for itself. But appetisers score highly where it matters – on taste. My daughter and I both plump for the Pacific Shrimp Tempura to start. These are excellent and come piping hot, nestled in a light golden batter, with ponzu sauce served in a china spoon for dipping. My wife’s Salmon Ceviche is really fresh and delicate. All the starters here are suitably light and modest (including Essex Oysters – fresh today), paving the way for the main event… the steak.

My chosen 350g thick cut Rib Eye is cooked to perfection (medium rare) and arrives unadorned, sitting in the middle of a huge white plate with only a little jug of sauce (peppercorn) as a companion. The quality and flavours are faultless.

There are three weights to choose from for most cuts. My wife and daughter choose the 500g thick cut Sirloin between two, which is sliced ready for sharing. Again, perfectly cooked and as tender as you could wish for: it simply melts in the mouth. All steaks here are from the UK and aged on the bone for a minimum of 28 days, which certainly adds to its tenderness and richness.

We share a selection of sides: Pommes Frites, Mac and Cheese, French Beans (with shallots and chilli) and a bowl of creamed spinach. Nothing fancy, nothing clever, but all flawlessly executed, although missing serving spoons.

Like the rest of the menu, dessert choices are quite minimal, but again, a case of quality over quantity. My Apple, Pecan and Cinnamon Pie tastes as good as it looks. With firm pieces of apple, and a dollop of ice cream on the side, this hits the spot for me.

My daughter is also more than happy with her Mixed Berry Pavlova. Laden with blueberries, blackberries, raspberries and slices of strawberries, and then drizzled with a zingy lemon curd sauce, it makes for a suitably sweet conclusion.

Still barely a month old, TSR is sure footed throughout, with no signs of teething problems, particularly on such a busy evening. A sure sign of good management and of good vibes in the air. And why not? I'd say it’s probably the best place to eat steak in the area.

STARTERS: £6.00-£8.00 • MAINS: £11.00-£35.00
DESSERTS: £5.00-£6.00 • HOUSE WINE: £19.00

Find Your Local