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Pasture Perfect 4 Aug 17
The cows are cross. Affronted, in fact. Their owner, farmer Jonathan Chapman, has turned up with a stranger (me) in tow, walked amongst them, demonstrated how healthy and gorgeous and good-natured... Read More
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A Sparkling Success 20 May 16
“And now, let me introduce you to this little chap here. This is Bacchus,” says Steve proudly. A tall man with a broad smile, Steve’s soft tan and broad shoulders bespeak a man far happier... Read More
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Holy Smoke 2 Jan 15
“Once I’ve explained what’s gone wrong with the industry, you’ll spot it a mile off,” Lance Forman declares, pulling up in the backyard of an unassuming wood-clad building. It’s 7am, and... Read More
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Well-Oiled 28 Mar 14
I’m browsing in a food market near Brindisi and I don’t speak Italian. A stallholder invites me to taste a black jam-like substance, made from grape juice. I buy a jar. He wants me to try the... Read More
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Made In Middlesex 28 Feb 14
Middlesex. We love it, of course, but it’s not exactly a culinary hotspot. It hasn’t the heritage of Lincolnshire, say, or the aspirational feel of Cornwall. When the 2012-13 Great Taste... Read More
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Look Beyond The Label 15 Nov 13
Recently I was chatting with an independent London baker who, the previous week, had received something of a spreading from a customer outraged that he charged over £2 per loaf. She’d told him... Read More
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Spoilt For Choice 5 Jul 13
It all used to be so simple. A nice roast on Sunday; cold meat and salad on Monday; Tuesday – mince up the rest of the leftover meat and knock up a nice, comforting pie. A few staple recipes to... Read More
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First Catch Your Cocoa Beans 6 Jul 12
Chocolate: Ask a European, and it’s confectionery made with the finest cocoa and butter and sold in chic chocolate boutiques. Ask a Brit, and it’s a bar of Dairy Milk or Galaxy from the corner... Read More
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Milked Dry 7 Oct 11
The last farm in our Buckinghamshire village is facing closure. Johns Lane Farm, in Ashley Green near Berkhamsted, has been in Brenda and Kevin Fancourt’s family since 1937 but is now struggling to... Read More
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Much Ado About Chocolate 26 Aug 11
With the astonishingly rapid rise in interest in ‘real’ food over the last few years you wouldn’t think that there was a niche product as yet unexploited… but two local women... Read More
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